The Mysterious History of Falanghina

Falanghina is an ancient white grape variety that has become a symbol of the Campania region over the years, where it is still mainly grown today. Its origin is mysterious and poorly documented, but the most accredited hypothesis is that it was imported by the Aminei, a native Greek population that colonised Campania. Ampelographic studies have shown that it may be the descendant of the ancient Roman Falerno grape. This variety produced fine white wines, which were particularly praised by the Romans and accurately described in the writings of Pliny the Elder and other Latin authors. The name also seems to derive from the Latin noun 'falangae', which was used to describe the stakes that supported the vines.

The earliest certified information on it dates back to studies in the 19th century, in which its taste profile and regional spread were outlined. Before this century there is little information available, probably because for centuries it was forgotten and abandoned in favour of other local varieties. It has only been rediscovered in recent times, proving to be particularly resistant to phylloxera and capable of providing excellent wines in volcanic soils where this insect was unable to reach.

Recent genetic research has brought to light the presence of two different clones in the Campania region: one from the Phlegrean area and the other from Benevento, which, despite subtle differences in DNA, bunch and berry shape, have similar organoleptic profiles.

Its recent success is connected to the expert hand of great producers who have obtained the best Falanghina wines from this particularly versatile grape. These include Falanghina Agnanum, "Serrocielo" of San Gregorio, "Via del Campo" of Quinto Decimo and "Svelato" of Terre Stregate, which, with its typical explosive freshness and delicate Mediterranean scents, faithfully expresses the Neapolitan soul. 

Diffusion, Characteristics and Pairings

It is grown mainly throughout the Campania region and to a small extent, also in Molise and northern Apulia. In Campania it is mainly widespread in the province of Benevento, in the prestigious area of Sannio and in the area of the Phlegrean Fields, where, in these lands, it expresses a volcanic, very savoury and mineral character.

The best Falanghina grapes are often grown on the volcanic soils of Sannio, which give it a very pleasant mineral range. The cool, Mediterranean climate ensures the production of quality grapes that result in wines with a dry, marine profile and aromas of citrus and white flowers. Falanghina DOC del Sannio must contain a minimum alcohol content of 10.5%, which can be raised to 11% in the subzones, and can also be produced in sparkling or passito versions.

Generally speaking, this wine is not aged in wood in order to bring out all the varietal scents of the vine. In the glass, Falanghina wine has a luminous straw-yellow colour, which reflects the scorching Mediterranean sun that warms the Neapolitan land. The aromas are rich and expressive, floral and fruity, with mineral tones depending on the area of production. Aromatic herbs, yellow fruit and salty hints are other features of the typical range of aromas. The flavour is often juicy and delicate, driven by a vibrant freshness and a pleasantly savoury aftertaste.

It is best served at a cool temperature of between 8 and 12°C in moderately sized glasses. It is a very versatile white wine, which is easy to pair with many fish dishes, such as spaghetti with clams, seafood risotto, seafood salad, fish tartare, fried seafood, grilled fish and steamed shellfish. A highly recommended pairing is with a good traditional Neapolitan margherita pizza.

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