Grappa
With the phrase "If wine is the poetry of the earth, grappa is its soul", it is difficult to summarise the essence of the only truly Italian distillate better than Mario Soldati did. At its foundation we find a solid body, the grape marc, and a desire, that of extracting its soul. It comes from the distillation process of the grape marc, that is, the grape skins still impregnated with must after pressing. Young or aged, soft or dry, single or multi-varietal, in all its different variations and types, it best expresses the soul of the centuries-old Italian tradition in the art of distillation.
With the phrase "If wine is the poetry of the earth, grappa is its soul", it is difficult to summarise the essence of the only truly Italian distillate better than Mario Soldati did. At its foundation we find a solid body, the grape marc, and a desire, that of extracting its soul. It comes from the distillation process of the grape marc, that is, the grape skins still impregnated with must after pressing. Young or aged, soft or dry, single or multi-varietal, in all its different variations and types, it best expresses the soul of the centuries-old Italian tradition in the art of distillation.
The Long Italian Tradition of Grappa
The origins of grappa are very ancient and can perhaps be traced back to the methods of medieval alchemists who had recovered the distillation techniques of Ancient Egypt and Mesopotamia. The first centre for the development of these techniques was undoubtedly the Friuli Venezia Giulia region, where various legends related to the origins of distillation in Italy still survive.
For centuries, from the Middle Ages to the present day, the peasants of Friuli and other regions of northern Italy, such as Piedmont and Veneto, have exploited the fresh pomace, or marc, obtained from the production of red and white wines by distilling by hand over direct fire in discontinuous stills. This practice produced a clear, high-alcohol beverage, traditionally drunk for warmth during work in the fields. Italy's first modern distillery, Bortolo Nardini of Bassano, was founded in 1779 and contributed to the spread and increase in quality of this Italian speciality by introducing the technique of steam distillation, which is still used today. This technique involves heating the stills with hot steam and allows for a more gradual and gentle boiling of the pomace compared to direct fire.
In 1898, Distilleria Bocchino of Canelli, in Piedmont, introduced the aromatic type, a quality grappa made using only Moscato marc, while in the 1970s the Nonino family of Friuli introduced the range of single-variety distillates, i.e. made from a single variety of grape, contributing significantly to raising the quality level of production.
Today it is produced all over Italy by distilleries that are very famous and esteemed all over the world such as Domenis in Friuli, Francoli in Piedmont and Jacopo Poli in Veneto, but also by small producers who have never abandoned the more artisanal and traditional techniques such as distillation with discontinuous stills. Among these, master distillers such as Vittorio Gianni Capovilla, Gino Barile and Romano Levi, the only one still using direct fire, stand out for the high quality of their production.
Different Types, One Unique Speciality
The most widespread version is the young or White Grappa, i.e. not aged in wooden containers. This is the oldest and most traditional type, often very intense and featuring a dry, crisp and clean flavour. When the pomace of a single variety of grape is used, it is called monovitigno (single variety), while interpretations made from grapes such as Moscato, Malvasia, Brachetto and Traminer are defined as aromatic.
Grappa Invecchiata matures for at least 12 months in wooden barrels and is called Stravecchia or Riserva if the period lasts 18 months or more. These expressions are usually richer and more complex, characterised by scents of sweet spices and a softer taste. If it rests for a few months in small oak barrels, it is called Grappa Barrique, a name that has become famous thanks to famous producers such as Bonaventura Maschio and Jacopo Poli.
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