The Red Wine of Excellence of the Oltrepò Pavese: Bonarda
The Oltrepò Pavese is one of the best wine-growing areas in northern Italy. This is a mainly hilly area of Lombardy in the province of Pavia, nestled between Piacenza in Emilia and Tortona in Piedmont, bordered to the north by the River Po and to the south by Mount Lessina. The historic pre-Apennine terrain with its marl, chalk and calcareous sandstone soil, and the harsh winter and hot summer climate, characterised by frequent rainfall, have made these lands the ideal setting for growing different varieties of grapes that for centuries have produced unique wines with a characteristic rustic feel. Among these is Bonarda wine, which is mainly produced from the Croatina grape.
It is one of the few local varieties that was not replaced by international grapes because it proved to be particularly resistant to disease and survived the plagues of phylloxera. The finest Bonarda, and probably the most appreciated, is lively or sparkling, with a rich, vibrant purple foam and a dry, fruity flavour that accurately reflects the essence of this territory.
The Territory's Main Grape Variety
This red wine was awarded DOC status in 2010 and requires the use of at least 85% Croatina grapes, with a smaller percentage of other local varieties such as Uva Rara, Ughetta and Vespolina. Croatina is the main grape variety of the area, cultivated by almost every producer, and has spread to neighbouring regions. In Piedmont, it is grown mainly in the Tortonese Hills and to a lesser extent also in the Vercellese, Cuneo and Novarese areas. This wine is not to be confused with the Bonarda grape variety, also called Uva Rara, present in many denominations in the Piedmont region. In Emilia-Romagna it has found a second home among the hills of Piacenza, which have very similar characteristics. Here it competes with Barbera in the production of various types, such as the famous Gutturnio.
It is a red grape variety with a large, canonical bunch and a spherical, medium-sized berry, covered by a thick skin rich in polyphenols. It tends to ripen late, towards the end of September or the beginning of October. It is a vigorous grape, with strong resistance to deadly diseases such as powdery mildew and phylloxera. Precisely for this reason it was cultivated and spread easily throughout the territory. Its origins are lost in the mists of time and probably date back to the ancient Romans. Researchers have traced its origins to the municipality of Rovescala, in the Oltrepò area, and it seems that from here it spread throughout the territory thanks to its powerful characteristics. The first evidence of its existence can be found in some documents dating back to the end of the 19th century, such as the Bollettino Ampelografico di Novara of 1879.
Characteristics, Pairings and Leading Producers
This red wine is available in two varieties: a still and a semi-sparkling version. The latter is the most popular and has become one of the reference points for semi-sparkling wines throughout the world. It has a dark and impenetrable ruby red colour, with flashes of purple and violet. The possible rich and persistent foam gives it a greater degree of luminosity. On the nose it exhibits all its fruity genuineness, in which fragrant, winey aromas of cherry, wild strawberries and pomegranate blend with tones of wild berries against a subtle undergrowth base with light hints of sweet and sharp spices. On the palate it is driven by a lively freshness and pleasant, acerbic tannins that make it light, dry and easy to drink, preserving that unmistakable rustic trace typical of the territory. These are wines best enjoyed when young and appreciated for their pure and authentic simplicity.
Among the best expressions of the area are: Bonarda Monsupello, Campo del Monte and Cresta del Ghiffi by Agnes as well as the lively and territorial versions by Quaquarini. In the Piacenza area, the vibrant and sweet interpretation of Torre Fornello is worth mentioning. This is a red wine suitable for the whole meal, capable of accompanying a large number of dishes. From classic combinations with first courses such as pasta and risotto with meat sauce to mixed grilled meats and game. The best combinations of Bonarda are based on local tradition, and in fact it goes perfectly well with risotto with sausage and chanterelles, porcini mushroom flans with truffles, crepes made with goat's cheese and aromatic herbs, creamy pumpkin soups, ravioli filled with chestnuts and all the fatty local cured meats, such as lard, coppa, pancetta and last but not least the famous salami from Varzi and cacciatorino of the Oltrepò. It also pairs well with traditional boiled meats with mustard, lentils and cotechino, cassoeula and goose with Savoy cabbage. Discover Bonarda wines for sale online at competitive prices on Callmewine and explore the data sheets and best pairings to fully experience the authentic and rustic taste of this corner of Lombardy.
