The Types and Techniques of Passito Production

Aromatic grapes, such as the different types of Muscat and Malvasia, Gewurztraminer and Riesling, up to the classic example of Semillon which has made Sauternes unique, are the most suitable varieties. Together with the type made from white grapes, there are also notable examples of red Passito, also capable of expressing sensational interpretations following a long period of rest in the cellar.

The first type is obtained by allowing the bunches of grapes to over-ripen on the vine for a few weeks, to obtain a particular abundance of fixed acids within the berries and a higher concentration of sugars, especially fructose, and extractive substances. Attention is periodically paid to the colour and turgidity of the berries themselves, to eliminate those affected by undesirable mould.

Following the harvest, the grapes are pressed and a thicker liquid with a higher alcohol content is obtained. A version that is quite rare in Italy, and which reaches its peak in France with Sauternes, is the one that involves the influence of Botrytis cinerea, a noble mould that particularly prefers humid areas. Its effect can cause the grapes to dry out over time, delaying the harvest several times.

The second type consists of drying the grapes in the sun or in special rooms. In particular, this second case uses artificial ventilation with heated air and controlled humidity. In this way, drying times are reduced and there is greater control over the extraction process. Occasionally, the grape bunches are hung inside a room and left to dry naturally, ensuring that the room is kept perfectly ventilated and constantly humid to prevent the growth of unwanted mould.

In the southern Italian regions, the grape bunches are spread out in the sun on special racks, as is used for the well-known Passito di Pantelleria, or hung on tightly-wound wires. The pressing and subsequent fermentation of the grapes usually takes place between December and February, but in some cases even later.

The third type is the so-called 'Icewine'. The bunches are left on the vine throughout the winter month and are harvested in January, encased by a characteristic layer of ice. The pressing itself takes place at low temperatures and the must is very poor in water, but dense in sugars.

The Main Organoleptic Characteristics

The passito wine offers silky and persistent characteristics to the palate, in its various shades, and scents of candied and dried fruits to the nose. Over-ripening renders this type of wine velvety to drink. Hints of exotic flavours and sultanas, followed by scents of dried and withered fruits can be attributed to the drying process, while jams and sweet spices are closer to the characteristics of "Icewine ".

This category, in its various versions, lends itself very well to pairing with desserts and dry pastries. It also goes well with blue and mature cheeses, creating a unique moment at the end of a meal, or perhaps just an after-dinner moment of meditation.

The Most Typical Expressions of the Different Areas

Some areas are particularly suited to the production of this particular wine. The late harvest type is particularly popular in northern Italy, in Alto Adige, Trentino and Veneto, and is characterised above all by its balance and smoothness. In Friuli, the Picolit variety is particularly interesting, as it is a standard bearer in this category and perfect to pair with local desserts.

Southern Italy offers a vast tradition of desserts that go perfectly well with Sicilian passito wine. The latter is characterised by warmer and brighter nuances both on the palate and during the tasting phase, and is marked by a pleasant freshness. Overall, each region boasts sweet wine specialities of great value, such as Albana Passito in Romagna and Vinsanto in Tuscany and Umbria.

Worldwide, some areas of Alsace, Germany and Austria offer remarkable examples. Specifically, a handful of municipalities in the Graves area, near Bordeaux, have a perfect microclimate for the growth of Botrytis cinerea. It is precisely its influence that has made the Sauternes denomination famous throughout the world, especially Château d'Yquem, whose Passito Bianco is a masterpiece in its category. The Semillon grapes, combined with a small percentage of Sauvignon and Muscadelle, are picked very carefully from the vine, berry by berry, when the rot is deemed to have withered the grapes sufficiently.

A similar technique can be found in Hungary in the Tokaji area, another of the so-called 'mouldy’ wines. The "Icewine" variety, on the other hand, is typical of Canada, Germany and Austria, but there are also excellent examples in Italy, especially in the north of the country.

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