The Practice of Sulphitation in the Cellar

Sulphur dioxide, potassium bisulfite and sodium bisulfite are the three substances most often used by wine and food producers to prevent possible oxidation. The main reason for their use relates to their preservative and stabilising properties, as well as their disinfecting and antibacterial properties.

These substances, which are available in liquid or gaseous form, but most often in powder form, fall into the category of allergens, as they can cause a variety of problems for those who are sensitive to them. If consumed in large quantities, they can cause unpleasant symptoms even in non-hypersensitive individuals, including migraines and the infamous headache. In the winemaking process, the addition of these substances can take place in several stages:

• on the harvested grapes, in order to combat microbial agents before fermentation;
• throughout the fermentation phase, particularly during racking or in the final stages of the process, when the must rich in microorganisms is more exposed to external agents;
• during bottling, to help preserve the final product and prevent it from deteriorating.

The addition of preservatives and stabilisers can therefore cover the entire production process, from harvesting the grapes to bottling. These operations concern every category of wine, from red to white, from sparkling to rosé, without forgetting passiti and so-called "muffati", which are particularly vulnerable to various risks. The quantity of additives, which must be kept moderate so as not to compromise the authenticity of the product, is not only the responsibility of winemakers. In fact, EU regulation 203/2012 of the 8th March 2012 establishes maximum limits to protect the health of consumers, reducing those already provided for in Regulation 606/2009. The maximum permitted values for the most common types are:

• 100 mg/l for red wines with a residual sugar content of less than 2 mg/l;
• 150 mg/l for white and rosé wines with a residual sugar content of less than 2 mg/l;
• 155 mg/l for quality sparkling wines;
• 220 mg/l, 270 mg/l, 320 mg/l or 370 mg/l for sweet wines, depending on the type.

These are some of the maximum levels laid down in the European Regulation. The reason why higher values are allowed when there is residual sugar is due to the need to preserve the organoleptic balance in the presence of unrefined sugars, which could trigger a refermentation.

However, the common trend for quality production is to remain well below these maximum limits, and this is especially true for the production of artisanal wines, which very often do not exceed values of 30 or 40 mg/l.

Sulphite-Free Wine: Legends and False Myths

The practice of sulphiting is very old and belongs to human culture. It is not an introduction of modern winemaking for industrial production, as many people think. The Ancient Romans already used sulphur dioxide, naturally present in the vicinity of volcanoes, to disinfect fermentation vats.

To date, no equally effective alternatives have been found, but in response to consumer demand, many producers have begun to reduce the quantities used to the point where some are producing sulphite-free wines. This is the case of producers such as Cantina Movia, which avoids all types of enological additives in the production of its best wines.

However, in order to limit or abolish their use without compromising the preservation of the final product, it is advisable to comply with certain requirements and to consider some alternative solutions, bearing in mind that:

• strict agronomic management and careful selection at harvest time favours the production of healthy bunches with a moderate microbial load;
• inside the cellar, hygiene conditions must be optimal;
• the concentration of polyphenols, obtained through maceration on the skins, plays a protective role against oxidation and spoilage;
• contact with oxygen of the must and the final product must be limited to avoid oxidation; and
• bottles produced that are not 'protected' from sulphur dioxide must be stored under ideal conditions in the cellar.

However, it is important to bear in mind that a small quantity of sulphites develops naturally during fermentation. Therefore, except in rare or exceptional cases, minimum quantities are always present. In this case, we are talking about a natural by-product, which never exceeds the threshold of 30 mg/l.

Given that the law requires producers to specify their presence if they exceed the value of 10 mg/l, many wines without added sulphites have this indication on their labels. It is important to bear in mind that swirling the wine glass, with good oxygenation, can release up to 40% of the sulphur dioxide contained in the bottle.

Discover sulphite-free wines for sale online and at special prices on Callmewine. Here you can find labels from all over the world and from every region of Italy, from Piedmont to Sicily, along with complete and detailed product sheets.